Fermenting Revolution

Sandor Ellix Katz - Wild Fermentation: The Flavor, Nutrition, and Craft of Live-Culture Foods (Chelsea Green, 2003) 641.7 KAT

I got chided in a review of my zine for using the phrase "fermenting revolution". I was reminded that revolution is fomented, and sour pickles are fermented. In this case I'm talking about a book by someone who is fermenting, if not revolution certainly something close.

In this book Sandor explores the many different culinary traditions from around the world that use live cultures (ie bacteria and yeast) in foods. These include very familiar ones such as sour dough, yogurt, sour kraut, kimchi, tempeh, wine and beer, and also ones that I wasn't familiar with such as Gundru (Nepalese pickled greens), Nuka (Japanese Bran Pickles), Kishk (Lebanese yogurt and bulgur ferment), all sorts of fermented breads and much more. He doesn't touch on traditions of fermented meat (which is fine by me), but runs the gamut of dairy (also addressing vegan alternatives) and vegetable ferments.

Sandor places these traditions within the context of resisting the homogenization (literally and figuratively) of food and culture around the globe, resisting GMO foods, and generally living more sustainable and fulfilling lives. Sandor is currently living with HIV and talks about coexisting with microbes as contrasted with the medical paradigm of being at war with them. This book is wonderful as much for the context and anecdotes (often about intentional communities in Tennessee where Sandor lives), as for the recipes. That being said I love the recipes as much or more than any cookbook (this is sort of a cookbook) I have ever read. I've been going through the book and have tried around 15 of the recipes thus far, with many successes and a few failures. I haven't worked my way up to making miso or tempeh, but who knows. Many of the recipes in this book are extremely simple and close to fool proof. Sour Kraut just needs cabbage, salt, water and a pail or crock (I use a 4L ice cream bucket). There are infinite varieties, but the basics couldn't be more simple. So please sign this book out and try a couple of the recipes, and in no time you'll have rushed out and bought it (like me).

It is also a wonderful book for those of us who garden, as it provides a myriad of ways to use and preserve all the extra produce we have. This year I've fermented kale, mustard greens, radishes and greens, turnips and greens, zucchini, horseradish root, and look forward to carrots, cucumbers and more. A wonderful, wonderful book.

Sandor has a newish book called The revolution will not be microwaved : inside America's underground food movements (Chelsea Green, 2006) 641.3 KAT I was going to say that the Calgary Public Library doesn't have it, but apparently they've got it in since I last checked. I haven't read it yet, but now have it on hold. Expect a post about it in a month or so.